Posts Tagged Malawi

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Jock Safari Lodge is one of the very first privately owned camps situated in the world famous Kruger National Park, with exclusive traversing rights in what is regarded as the best Big Five game viewing area in the Kruger National Park.

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Jocks Safari Lodge - Kruger National Park

Marlin Lodge, Benguerra Island

At Marlin you can’t escape the age-old rhythms of Africa, the heady sense of history. The chalets stretch along the beach of Flamingo Bay. Each sea-facing chalet has a private patio with a walkway down to the sandy white beach.

From only R15785

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CHRISTMAS ABOARD NORWEGIAN JADE

This fantastic cruise is perfect for a family who wants both adventure and relaxation over the festive season. Your 14 Night Christmas cruise departs Barcelona on 20 December 2009 calling at Civitaveccia (Rome) Naples, Alexandria (Overnight) Rhodes Izmir…

From only R12825

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Flamingo Bay Water Lodge

Situated on stilts in the crystal clear waters of the Indian Ocean, this eco paradise is home to flocks of flamingoes, beautiful mangrove waterways and the very rare Dugong. Located on the coast with some of the most spectacular coral reefs in the…

From only R7959

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Barra Lodge

Barra Lodge is set in one of the most picturesque areas in Mozambique, 485km north of Maputo. Barra has secluded beaches, bordered by the Inhambane Estuary on the one side and the sea on the other. The lodge is nestled among groves of coconut trees…

From only R6522

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Pomene Bay Lodge

Hidden away on the unspoiled coast of sub-tropical Mozambique, free from fax or phone, Pomene Lodge offers an action packed adventure for the serious diving, fishing and outdoor enthusiast. Pomene Lodge is situated in one of the most picturesque…

From only R8941

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Safari Beach Lodge, Malawi

Safari Beach Lodge in Malawi is situated in the Senga Bay Forest Reserve near Salima, located directly on the beautiful Malawi Lake. Just a half hour drive from the capital Lilongwe, it is the ideal place to unwind on the banks of the lake. Our…

From only R11255

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Add comment October 7, 2009

Romantic Malawi – Rickety Bridge to Romance by Roy Watts

Soon to be married couples always think of the most ubiquitous of destinations when planning that all important honeymoon, such as the Seychelles, Mauritius, Maldives & the Caribbean, but would they consider Malawi and the most romantic of islands on Lake Malawi, Likoma Island and the Kaya Mawa Lodge, read on to be inspired…thanks to Roy Watts the intrepid traveller whose article is sure to inspire the aspirant honeymooner.

Rickety Bridge to Romance

Published in the Nov / Dec issue of ‘Private Edition’ volume 2

Photographs and text by Roy Watts

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International tourism which is already in a parlous state, is about to become even more restricted as the global melt down linked to a shrinking currency, severely restricts our travel resources. Having hocked the family silver and taken a second bond on the house, our rands overseas will then do battle with shops, hotels, restaurants, and rude taxi drivers. As things stand now, the most modest arrangements take on the financial implications of a reckless spending spree, and going to a restaurant in London risks a lifetime of remorse. Alternatively, it is possible to step into an affordable time warp, and experience the graceful ambience of the past in Malawi – the ‘Warm Heart of Africa’.

It is a country not much bigger than Cuba, with a population of some 10 million people, most of whom live under the yolk of widespread poverty, and who depend on subsistence farming or fishing for survival. But nowhere are living hardships reflected in the demeanour of its citizens. Unfettered by the pressures of civilization, the villagers are not malnourished, their days are filled with sunshine, and poverty under the palms is a different proposition to rag and bone survival in the cities. Malawians are sunny, friendly people living in a state of peace and harmony that is in sharp contrast to much of the turbulence elsewhere on the continent. It is also a land of singular charm, with a burgeoning tourist industry cashing in on a bankable climate, gorgeous scenery and perhaps one of the greatest single topographical resources in Africa – Lake Malawi. This inland fresh water sea has the reputation of being home to some of the most romantic destinations on earth. Although not given to running through wheat fields in slow motion, when my editor offered an assignment to discover whether reality matched reputation, I took the bait like a blue finned tunny.
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Raindrops falling high in the catchment areas of neighbouring Tanzania, Mozambique and Zambia, begin a lengthy journey as they trickle, splash, run, course and eventually spew into the giant lake lying in a depression in the Great Rift Valley. Plunging to a depth of 700 metres at its deepest point, and measuring 560 km by 80km at its widest, it is the lifeblood of many Malawians. It is also the ace in the tourist deck with a well developed resort infrastructure. So it was on a wet, blustery and miserable Cape winter’s day, I found myself winging my way to the seductive warmth of Malawi.

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Landing at Lilongwe I was immediately struck by the smiling visages and friendly attitude of the officials steering us through customs and immigration. A short walk across the tarmac and I found myself aboard a 2 hour charter flight heading for Likoma Island and the Kaya Mawa Lodge – one of the most unique hostelries anywhere, and rated by Conde Naste Traveller as being among the foremost romantic destinations in the world. And I wouldn’t argue with that. The main building is perched on a rocky promontory and houses attractive accommodation suites, an atmospheric pub, alfresco and formal dining facilities, a beautiful swimming grotto and a private beach with a full range of aquatic sports options from scuba diving to paddle skis and sailing dinghies. But the main attraction is a number of rough hewn rock chalets each on its own islet in the lake, and connected to the ‘Mother Ship’ by rickety wooden bridges – with pride of place going to Honeymoon Island. This spectacular piece of seductive isolation is tucked away amongst luxuriant trees and massive boulders on a rocky outcrop. It has its own private gazebo and teak ladder access to the cerulean waters of Lake Malawi. Honeymoon Island backs up my theory that rickety wooden bridges always lead to places of enchantment.

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All too soon, after a wondrous couple of days exploring this charismatic island, I found myself back on a charter flight heading for an airfield at Monkey Bay. From here a brief road transfer takes one to Cape Maclear and the starting point for a place that will have star billing when I set up my honeymoon consultancy – Mumbo Island. Kayak Africa operates from a mop-topped Robinson Crusoe complex from where I set off by launch for this overwhelmingly beautiful eco-paradise. Here timber poles, canvas, thatch and wooden decks blend with lush island vegetation and terrain. The result is a rustic hideaway that will satisfy the most unrealistic romantic expectations.

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We all have dreams of idyllic islands set like jewels in aquamarine waters, and Mumbo actually delivers this vision. Only lotus eaters need apply. In describing this unique travel bookmark, I find myself adrift in a sea of adjectives. But how else can one describe kayaking on cobalt waters in the golden haze of an African sunset, surreal snorkeling in the psychedelic atmosphere created by neon-coloured fish, or just lazing in a hammock looking out on an impossibly blue vista? I only hope I can get this all down before my poetic license is revoked.

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An efficient but unobtrusive staff runs Mumbo. They magically produce the most delicious meals, load up the primitive but effective showers, and light up the oil fired lanterns that enhance Utopian ambience at night. There’s also a highly professional team of well-trained instructors supervising the aqua activities, and I can’t think of a better place to learn how to scuba dive. Lake Malawi is home to more species of fish than any other lake in the world, and is famous for the small ‘perch-like cichlids of which 500 varieties are not found anywhere else. They come in an enormous range of colours shapes and sizes, and diving here is akin to being underwater in a giant tropical aquarium

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Lake Malawi pours into the Shire River at its southern end then flows into Lake Malombe before meandering through the Liwonde National Park. Strategically placed in a creek at its widest point is the stunning Mvuu Wilderness Lodge. Getting there has always been an arduous and hazardous road hassle, a fact recognised by Howard Massey Hicks who runs Danforth Lodge at Cape Maclear. He has introduced a luxury shuttle from Mangochi using the MV Shenzi, a converted launch complete with sleeping accommodation, cooking facilities and an onboard skipper to cruise down the Shire River en route to one of Malawi’s favourite destinations. Dan forth Lodge itself is a really good stopover featuring wonderful cuisine, and Massey Hicks arranges a one hour road transfer to the waiting launch. With an on-board gas barbeque, and food provided by the lodge, the trip to Mvuu becomes a floating celebration enhanced by an ongoing parade of animals along the banks of the river.

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Mounted on a ridge overlooking the small lagoon, are five luxurious tented chalets that blend with lush tropical vegetation. From their viewing decks one can watch an ongoing procession of game, and have an up front and personal relationship with a hyperactive band of monkeys all suffering from advanced kleptomania.

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Meals are often al fresco affairs in a boma just below the attractive open sided lounge and dining room. One evening we were given a serious shock when an elephant strolled down a path leading from the chalets. Richard, the camp manager ordered us to sit stock still. Good advice as it happened – it trumpeted a loud harrumph of disapproval and decided not to join us as it stomped off into the bush.

Mvuu offers a wide range of nature walks and game dives but the main attractions are the launch cruises up Lake Malombe. In its waters hippos loiter without intent whilst enormous crocodiles lurk with malice aforethought. Patrolling the banks, lofty elephants survey their domain, and occasionally take to the lake where they have more fun than kids in a water park. In the air an enormous variety of birds put on a wondrous aerial display and occasionally you might see a fish eagle swoop on an unsuspecting fish from an overhead branch. There is simply no way you can get better game viewing opportunities than from a launch, and at times we were no further than a few feet from some of the six hundred elephants that populate the area.

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The other big attraction at Danforth Lodge is “Mufasa”, a magnificent 38 foot catamaran moored thirty meters from the beach. It is a luxury 10 berth vessel and is the only craft licensed to offer charters from which to explore the harbours, shoreline and exotic islands of this exciting waterway. It is a really good venue for a small group celebration, and would also be an excellent alternative means of getting to Cape Maclear from the Lilongwe Airport.

At the end of a fascinating excursion filled with interest and excitement, I found myself beset with a severe case of adjectivitis, brought on by unbounded enthusiasm for this wonderful country. And as the rand sinks slowly in the west, I believe that Sub Saharan holidays will increase in popularity. Certainly I believe that my experiences in Malawi prove that this is the venue for a perfect honeymoon – all I have to do now is find a wife!

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